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How to Buy a Good Used Car
"Buying a good
used car has never been easier. Learn what a "saggy
driver's seat" and excessively worn pedals
mean. And discover other key things you need
to look for when buying a good used car."
How to buy a good used car
Used cars are often better
values than new cars. The price of the average new car is up to nearly
$30,000 and it depreciates by almost 15 to 20 percent in the first year.
A used car costs an average of $8,000 and depreciates more slowly.
The
used car marketplace,
however, can be unsavory. Prices are highly elastic and subject to
haggling. Paint and polish can be liberally applied to mask evidence
of wear and tear, and odometers are often rolled back to hide the car's true
mileage. Warranties are skimpy, if available. Finding out how
much a car has suffered usually entails a good bit more than the proverbial
kick in the tires.
Although you can't eliminate
the risk when buying a used car, you can better the odds of getting sound
transportation by learning how to shop.
Used-car leasing
Instead of buying a used car, you can lease one
these days. General Motors and Ford lease models turned in at the end
of new car leases, generally ones that are two or three years old.
Leasing sounds good on paper: A $50,000 car might lease for $600 a month
when new, but for only $260 when three years old.
Many of the steps involved in leasing a used car are the
same as those in leasing a new car. Take particular note that the mileage
allowance covers the amount you expect to drive. Make sure the
warranty covers the entire lease period, and that you know what parts are
covered. And carefully document the condition of the car at the start
of the lease.
What to consider
First, figure out what kind
of car suits your life style and budget. Four-door sedans and station
wagons usually provide the best used-car value. Chances are they've
been driven and maintained more prudently than high-performance models.
Convertibles, sporty coupes, and luxury models remain pricey even when used.
Next, consider cars that have
held up well in the past and this information about the
automobile's history
may be obtain from a copy of Consumer Reports Buying Guide. This handy book
may be found at your local book store or library. The frequency of
repair records, based on reader's experiences with more than 486,000
cars, trucks, sport utility vehicles, and vans, describe the reliability
history of 1988 and up. The better the car scored in the past, the
less likely it is to have problems in the future. To find out how much
a model sells for in your area, you can use the Consumer Reports Used-Car
Price Service section of the book.
Looking for trouble
Never buy on looks alone.
After you've found a candidate, give it a thorough inspection - on the lot,
on the road, and at the service station. Bring along a friend to help
troubleshoot.
Here's what to look for:
Fluids.
When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap
and inspect the coolant; it shouldn't be rusty. Greenish stains on the
radiator denote pinholes. To check on automatic transmission,
warm up the engine and remove the dipstick. The fluid should be
pinkish; it shouldn't smell burned or contain metal particles.
Leaks.
Puddles or stains beneath the car are a bad sign. So is excessive
residue of lubricants on the engine, transmission, hoses, and other under
hood components.
Body Integrity.
Rust is ruinous. Check the wheel
wells and rocker panels, the door bottoms, and the floor of the trunk, under the mat. Rust can also hide beneath blistered paint. Fresh
welds in the car's underbody point to an accident. So does ripply body
work, a part whose color or fit doesn't seem to match, and new paint on a
late model car. Fresh undercoating on older cars also is a giveaway.
Tires and suspension.
A car with fewer than 25,000
miles should have its original tires. Uneven tread wear may merely
indicate poor alignment, but it may also signal serious suspension damage.
Grab the top of each tire and shake it. If there's play or a clunking
sound, suspect loose or worn wheel bearings or suspension joint.
Bounce the car a few times by pushing down each corner. When you
let go, the car should rise and then settle. If it keeps bouncing ,
the struts or shock absorbers need replacing. Look at the car from the
rear and the side. A lopsided stance could mean sagging springs.
Interior.
A saggy driver's seat means heavy use of a
heavy user. Excessively worn or brand new pedals might signal high
mileage. Check under carpets for mildew or moisture. Musty odors
suggest a water leak, often a costly fix because the source may be hard to
find.
Closing the deal.
A car that's passed muster to
this point is ready for checking by a reliable mechanic (that should cost
$60 to $100). If you don't have a mechanic, consult the Yellow Pages
for auto diagnostic center. Make sure the mechanic performs a
compression test on all cylinders, mention the flaws you've found, and get a
written estimate of repairs to use in price negotiations.
The National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration can tell you whether the model has even been recalled.
Also, check the Product Recalls chapter of a Consumer Report Buying guide
book. If the car has been recalled, ask the seller for proof the problem
was corrected.
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